馬來西亞的故鄉情。中國的中華情。臺灣的本土情

150 Master Chefs of the World-André Chiang 全球最佳150位名廚-江振誠


About Chef André Chiang

Chef André Chiang has a philosophy of using only the freshest of seasonal produce. Having made an indelible impression on the Singapore culinary scene since its opening in late 2010, Restaurant ANDRE was recently listed as the top 10 restaurants in the world worth a plane ride by the New York Times. André was also listed by Wallpaper magazine as one of the world’s best young chefs.

One of Asia’s Top 10 Young Chefs and Best 150 Relais Gourmand Master Chefs of the World, André Chiang’s career spans numerous highly successful roles in various Michelin-starred establishments where his impressive career spans some of the world’s top French restaurants including the masters of “Nouvelle Cuisine” – Pierre Gagnaire (3-Michelin Star), L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (1-Michelin Star), and L’Astrance (3-Michelin Star) in Paris; La Maison Troisgros (3-Michelin Star) in Roanne, and Le Jardin des Sens (3-Michelin Star) in Montpellier. A blend of dynamic passion and modest charm, André’s magnetism is as irresistible as his cuisine.

Crafting celebrated creations, combining Mediterranean accents and French techniques, André attributes his influences to the 3 generations of Masters in “Nouvelle Cuisine” as well as inspiration he draws from the myriad selection of products he uses everyday.

THE ÉLECTRONS LIBRES-ASIA CHEF: ANDRÉ CHIANG

The Électrons Libres, is a group of chefs that are as individual or a leaders of a group have taken a unique route that goes beyond the learning process. Their philosophy transforms the cuisine of the present time as well as the cuisine of the future in a specific area (place) or country. Sometimes they are the leaders of a culinary movement but often, they are alone in their search. 

Barely passed his thirties, the Chef André Chiang in October 2010 opened his own restaurant in Singapore. And why is this restaurant so anticipated by fans and foodies? Just because this young Chef , with strong French roots, has already won several awards and has collected good papers in the media.

After several years doing an apprenticeship with the greatest French chefs of the moment; Gagnaire, Troisgros, Pascal Barbot, Robuchon (L’Atelier) and brothers Pourcel (Le Jardin des Sens), André Chiang decided to accept a new challenge and to lead the kitchen at Restaurant Jaan by André (Swissôtel-The Stamford) inSingapore. It was ranked # 39 on the prestigious list S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2010.

His cuisine is based on a strong French techniques and a great respect for the purity of the products. It is highly creative and these days inspired by the fresh ingredients from Singapore and Asia. Chiang has developed over the years aunique and original philosophy (Octaphilosophy) expressed in eight points:Unique, Texture, Memory, Pure, Terroir, Salt, South, Artisan.

Great expectations for a great chef in a city where gastronomy is changing rapidly and where they will be many discoveries in the coming years!

 

Q+A WITH ANDRÉ CHIANG (www.restaurantandre.com):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy (Octaphilosophy) behind your cuisine at Restaurant Andre and how do you construct your Menu Octa?

AChiang- Octaphilosophy is a hypothesis I have practiced for several years now, these eight elements are constantly repeated and have regularly resurface in my menus.  It is a concept I have applied in many of my creations.  The new restaurant has provided me with the avenue to consolidate and share my thoughts in a more succinct manner.

How does Octaphilosophy present for diners when they visit the restaurant?  Based on eight primary characteristics: Unique, Texture, Memory, Pure, Terroir, Salt, South and Artisan; diners will be taken on a journey with a repertoire of eight dishes themed after the eight characteristics of Octaphilosophy.

Representative dishes in the menu change through the seasons or according to the inspirations from the fresh produce received each day, while the characteristics of the philosophy remain unchanged.

A Representation of Our Menu this Season:

·         PURE

 (A pure flavour without seasoning)

·         SALT

(Salt from the sea)

·         ARTISAN

(Heritage and limited produce from artisans around the globe)

TEXTURE

(A play with textures)

·         SOUTH

(Celebrating the colours and generosity of the South of France)

·         UNIQUE

(A combination of the best and most unique ingredients)

·         MEMORY

(A fond memory of a timeless dish, in creation since 1998)

·         TERROIR

(Celebrating the gifts from the land)

2-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?

AChiang– The dish I have featured as MEMORY (Foie Gras Jelly) is one of my favourite dishes.  It is a dish that has evolved through the years with me, and brings back fond memories of my days training and working in France.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

AChiang- love the lemon for it’s acidity and it’s role as a flavour catalyst.  The acidity in lemons enhances the flavour of a dish as the sensation intermingles with our taste buds allowing the flavours that precede to be more pronounced.

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine?

AChiang- I am eternally grateful for the opportunities that I have been given in my career and the influence from the 3 generations of Masters of “Nouvelle Cuisine”, not forgetting the myriad selection of products the restaurant receives everyday which are my essential daily dose of inspiration.

5-(Scoffier) Your influences are very French, is there a part of Asia in your cuisine?

AChiang- I arrived in Singapore 3 years ago and I am still exploring ingredients available here. When I create, I try as often as possible to incorporate the freshest produce we are able to procure locally or from the region, capitalising on seasonality, proximity and availability.

6-(Scoffier)- For about 3 years, Singapore is on the map of Gourmet, can you tell us the benefits of working there, and the ease of finding a high quality products? I know that a chef as Pascal Barbot (L’Astrance, Paris) take a lot of time choosing and picking his produces at the market. (Your relation with your suppliers…)

AChiang- The amalgamation of cultures and the vibrant mix of culinary styles does make Singapore’s gourmet scene very fascinating.   I am impressed by the standard that this island nation presents and the support its government provides with their myriad programmes to elevate the standard of the culinary offerings here to drive growth in the industry.

With Singapore being a leading business hub, I have not encountered major problems sourcing for produce.  We work with a brilliant group of suppliers and farmers in Singapore and globally who support us with very good produce. We also hope to continue introducing fine food purveyors who supply to top restaurants in Europe to Singapore.

7-(Scoffier) Do you use some elements from new technology (sous-vide etc.) in your cooking techniques? If yes, which?

AChiang- Charcoal grilling is my latest obsession. In my opinion, the intense unique smokey charcoal grilled flavour is a taste that we are so familiar with but yet forgotten.

It is such an exceptional cooking technique that cannot be replaced with any modern technology.

8-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of Andre Chiang?

AChiang-The PURE dish in my Octaphilosophy menu which features all raw elements with no cooking and no seasoning.

9-(Scoffier) What is your goal (ambitions) as chef or for your restaurant?Do you think about write a book, a television show, others?

AChiang- With this restaurant, I hope to be able to establish new frontiers in fine-dining with an enhancement of my revolving repertoire of dishes. It is important to realise that dining is more than just exceptional cuisine and service standards.  What is more important than to stir emotion in the hearts of the guest and to reveal stories that have never been told before?

Apart from cuisine, the restaurant also reveals the non-culinary side of my art, it showcases my penchant for design and the arts with delicately-crafted artwork in various mediums which are showcased throughout the three-storey space.

My immediate task is to have the restaurant up and running well.  I also hope to be able to continue to do what I like, bringing more to the people who have been supporting me.

We are ready to write a cookbook and look forward to continue collaborating with other chefs to pass on the new bio movement and my philosophy.

 

FURTHER INFORMATION:        

-Restaurant Andre/Chef André Chiang

41 Bukit Pasoh Road

Singapore  089855

www.restaurantandre.com

江振誠簡介 

16歲遠赴法國學習料理,25歲當上法國米其林三星主廚,30歲時,
江振誠離開法國到新加坡實現開店的夢想,堅持每天每位客人都能看到他,
每道菜都由他親自做最後的組合。他每天待在廚房18小時以上,
持續4、5年專研法式料理,堅持只用最新鮮的時令食材是江振誠的料理哲學。

江振誠先生的八角料理哲學,所謂的「八角哲學」,裡頭共有八種元素,
包括了純、鹽、藝、質、南、獨、憶、地,分別是八道菜餚裡面的創作靈感,
能夠在台灣聽到他的演講,是一種幸福。更重要的是,透過江振誠先生闡述八角哲學,
讓我們瞭解他對料理的初衷,也讓我們反思我們內心深處,什麼是屬於我們的內心初衷?
觀察自己內心深處對一個興趣,或者投入的事業,最原始的動力是什麼?
用八角哲學,再一次思索,什麼是我們最原本的熱情?

法菜廚藝界的「台灣之光」江振誠,20歲即任西華飯店副主廚,25歲當上南法米其林三星餐廳〈Pourcel〉主要執行主廚的江振誠,曾被餐飲指南〈Relais & Chateaux〉列為「2006全球最佳150位名廚」之一,當年也被Discovery頻道選為「亞洲10大最佳青年主廚」。除此,江振誠主持的餐廳也二度被《時代雜誌》評為「印度洋上最偉大的料理」,而在新加坡用江振誠名字命名的餐廳〈JAAN PAR ANDRE〉,更在「聖貝勒格利諾全球最佳餐廳排行榜」(S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants)名列39,集多項光環與榮耀於一身。 去年10月10日,江振誠自己的餐廳〈Restaurant Andre〉在新加坡開幕,憑精湛廚藝與獨特的用餐氛圍,除屢屢得到新加坡與國際權威美食評鑑的好評,客座常滿的訂席狀況與700元新幣的平均客單價,絲豪不遜於開在金沙酒店裡的6家米其林星級餐廳。 34歲的江振誠究竟憑什麼魅力在食壇快速崛起,並在競爭激烈的獅城與前輩名廚頭角崢嶸?透過專訪,食家饕客可從他獨創的料理「八角哲學」,深度了解這位型男主廚在想什麼?做什麼?

8個英文字分別是:Pure(純淨)、Salt(鹽)、Artisan(手做工藝)、South(南法)、Memory(記憶)、Unique(獨特性)、Terroir(風土名物),以及Texture(質感)。

「它們過去每天都存在我料理的菜餚裡」,江振誠回憶自己的廚藝人生,非常謹慎的傳達他想表達的想法。他說,在籌備自己的餐廳時,他一直在想著「什麼是Andre的style?」、「Andre的菜是什麼?」,最後他決定用這8個字「定義」自我的料理風格。

去年雙十節正式開幕,位在新加坡中國城附近的〈Restaurant Andre〉,從口布到窗簾、從餐桌到刀叉,都是江振誠自己設計,他甚至自己動手捏陶,打造自己心目中最理想的餐盤。餐廳的菜單其實不是菜單,而是寫了前述8個英文單字。每個字代表一道菜,更代表了一個江振誠欲傳達的「料理哲思」。他說,再稀有珍貴的食材其實都難不倒頂級食客,他真正想讓客人了解的是「自己做菜的動機」。

8個字並沒有先後順序,也不代表誰是前菜或是主菜,但每一次必定會出現在江振誠設計的套餐中。「南方」記註著江振誠菜餚的基調:南法風格。「鹽」是人類最早的調味料,所有菜色少不了它,不過江振誠為菜餚增鹹不是用鹽,而是用特別找來的海水。「獨特」指的不一定是食材,有時它也指組合的方式,或是一種味道。例如,他用新鮮草莓醃番茄,客人吃到番茄,聞到的卻是草莓香。

又例如,江振誠會把烏骨雞的雞蛋埋在大量的香料裡,蛋有毛細孔,味道會滲透到蛋黃裡,所以蛋餚上桌時外觀與一般雞蛋無異,敲開殼後味道立刻飄散彌漫,讓人意外驚奇。

一方水土養一方名物,江振誠料理羊肉,堅持採用諾曼第的小羔羊,這種羊被養在聖米契島上,小羊的爸爸、媽媽吃的是退潮後被海水浸潤的野草,「喝了奶水長大的小羊肉質會有特殊的風味」,江振誠認為,料理必須讓客人認識世界,這就是「Terroir」。

江振誠強調,食物可以鏈結人們情感,喚起人的記憶,就像一首歌、一本日記、一張照片,他要用一道菜帶領吃客重新捕捉過去生活裡的某一片段、場景。在星洲的〈Andre〉餐裡有一道菜,食材紛陳在盤中時看不出是什麼,組合吃到口中則像極了兒時吃的巧克力,對照著「Memory」,自然讓人會心莞爾。

「向食材與種植它們或飼養牠們的人致敬」,江振誠說,每一種食材都有它們自己的特性,以及最適合的料理方式,可是廚師們多數會自私地(ego)用自己的想法去料理它們,所以他設計的套餐中,一定會有一道菜餚會非常簡單的、甚至是沒有烹調的,因為他「要讓食材說話」。江振誠強調,這是「Pure」的精神。

身高將近190公分的江振誠,舉手投足像極了訓練有素的模特兒,殊不知,外表俊酷的型男腦中卻有著像藝術家般的哲思。「八角哲學」究竟還有何更精采的地方,9月上旬他到台北晶華酒店客座,值得期待。

2 responses

  1. My mouth was watering through that entire blog!

    January 11, 2012 at 8:38 am

    • Dear, he is very handsome and very professional in cook

      January 11, 2012 at 11:05 am

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